Things We ❤️ about Austin
by Michel Thibault & Marla Norman
Wherever you are, whomever you speak with, it seems as if everyone has heard of Austin. Once in a cafe in Athens, Greece, our waiter asked where we were from and when we said “Austin” he immediately broke into a rendition of Stevie Ray Vaughan’s “Pride & Joy.” The entire room applauded.
Marla has always said that if she lived in Texas, it would have to be in Austin. She loves the scenic Hill Country and creative energy. So, when we decided to move to Texas, Austin was the obvious destination. It’s been ten years since we moved and the city has changed dramatically. The population has increased to over a million as hundreds of families move here seeking jobs with Samsung, Dell, Tesla and other top companies.
The political scene here has also become more dynamic. Former Governor Rick Perry famously referred to Austin as the blueberry in the Texas cherry pie. And that’s still true in the downtown area, but the suburbs with the recent influx of Californians have turned purplish to red. What I appreciate here is that people still seem to be able to discuss politics and candidates in a civilized manner.
I also love the mix of urban and rural scenery. “The city of Austin has 512 parks and 69% of Austin residents live within walking distance of a park.” (Trust for Public Land) And it’s young and dynamic. “The median age is 34.9.” (City of Austin) We sometimes feel incredibly old and outdated, but the youthful vibe is also energizing.
So, what else is exciting about the city? No surprise – I love the winemaking here — something I never expected to find in central Texas!!! It’s a giant laboratory. Some is great. Some is average. Some is downright awful. But the interest and experimentation are so interesting. And the camaraderie among the many winemakers — which are growing by the day — is really impressive.

The Texas Hill Country is now the third largest wine-growing area in the US. Photo courtesy of Hawk’s Shadow Winery.
Next time you visit Austin, be sure to follow the Wine Road, from the city limits all the way to Fredericksburg. Wineries abound in cities such as Dripping Springs, Driftwood, Johnson City and Hye. The Texas Hill Country is now the third largest wine-growing area in the US. (statistic from Wine America) Over the past couple of decades, quite a few have made a name for themselves producing quality wines.
In Fredericksburg, Dr Richard Becker was one of the original wine pioneers in 1992. At Becker Vineyards, he now produces 80,000 cases annually. In Hye, the most popular is William Chris Vineyards, often mentioned as the finest wine producer in the region. Towards Johnson City, visit Calais, a small artisanal winery with a very talented owner from Calais, France.
Down the road from Calais is one of our favorites, Siboney Cellars. Owned by Barbara and Miguel Lecuona, Siboney is a true gem. Not only are the wines delicious and the winery quite impressive, but Miguel has added some yummy surprises to experience. Sharing his Cuban heritage, he provides fabulous Medianoche sandwiches and a selection of fine cigars. A fantastic musician, he also plays the piano with brio while you enjoy the wines and Texas Hill Country scenery!

Views from Hawk’s Shadow Winery, owned by brothers Tom & Doug Reed. Photo by Matt Mohondro.
In Dripping Springs, a must-go is Hawk’s Shadow Winery. Owned by brothers Tom and Doug Reed, this slice of heaven is quite a trek from the main road but well worth it. The view of the wild Texas landscape is spectacular, but even better are the food and wine.
Earlier this year we visited with our friends Hélène Garcin and Patrice Lévêque, who as many of you know, own four premium estates in Bordeaux. We sampled 8-10 wines and most blew us away! Some of the wines are barreled up to four years and while we thought that would give off too much oak and have the wine lose freshness, that was not so.

Tom Reed, co-owner of Hawk’s Shadow, with Patrice Lévêque, Michel and Hélène Garcin. Photo by Marla Norman.
Another notable visit is the Driftwood Estate Winery. At release time, the winery offers a nice luncheon to show their appreciation. A few miles away, the Mandola Estate & Vineyard sits on beautiful grounds with a favorite restaurant, Trattoria Lisina. In fact, there are many more wineries in the area and winery tours are offered by such outfits as Hill Country Wine Tours, so you don’t drive tipsy.
In addition, if wine is not your thing, then breweries and distilleries are here for you, whether the famed Deep Eddy Vodka, Dripping Springs Vodka or the many rum and whisky distilleries, most equipped with tasting rooms and food.
Our recent discovery – Desert Door Distillery. What a treat! The distillery produces a tequila-like spirit called Sotol, made from an evergreen succulent that thrives in Texas. Somewhat similar to Mezcal, the spirit is delicious when mixed with fresh juices but beware…It can be quite powerful. Desert Door has a nice outdoor area and you can enjoy your drink while listening to live music or if the weather is chilly, inside by the fireplace.

Sotol plants harvested to make a tequila-like spirit at Desert Door. Photo courtesy of Desert Door.
So many pleasures all within a few miles of the city. Most are owned by local passionate artisans and it is a pleasure for us Austinites (as we now proudly call ourselves) to support their efforts and enjoy the Texas lifestyle.
BEYOND TEX-MEX & BBQ
When I first visited Austin in the mid-1980s, the Texas capitol was still one of the tallest buildings in the city skyline. The town was relaxed, even a little sleepy, and many locals were famously determined to keep things “weird.”
Armadillo World Headquarters had just opened to champion the city’s vibrant music scene and a kid named Michael Dell was working out of a UT dorm room to set up his company — something to do with computers. You could feel the ground begin to shake, but major changes were still a few years away.
Back then, Tex-Mex and BBQ were the main cuisines, with the occasional steak house. I followed the crowds down Congress to Las Manitas an unpretentious spot that had become an Austin legend. I sampled my first ever breakfast taco and I still think it may have been the best. When Las Manitas closed in 2008, the entire city went into mourning. Urbanization. Gentrification. Austin’s growing pains.

The Capitol building amidst skyscrapers on Congress Ave. Photo courtesy of Visit Austin.
Today, the capitol building is barely visible — massive skyscrapers surround it. Austin has become “Silicon Hills” and the restaurant scene has changed accordingly. Last November, the city officially gained Michelin status when the renowned French guide awarded stars to seven restaurants. Times have definitely changed.
But, amidst all the progress and development, Austin’s quirky, fun-loving, “keep-it-weird” side has remained intact. There are still plenty of food trucks, honkey-tonks and BBQ joints along with fine-dining options. Michel and Iove them all. A few of our favorites here.
TEX-MEX
One of the less appealing aspects of moving to Austin was gaining weight. After the first few months, we were hooked on guacamole, queso, flautas, etc…never met a Margarita we didn’t like. Eventually, concerned about expanding waist lines, we began “researching” with a bit more discretion. Now, when we’re ready to indulge, these are our go-to spots:

Comedor’s Cochinita Pibil Tacos – just as good as they look. Photo courtesy of Comedor.
Comedor
Upscale Mexican classics might best describe Comedor. Bone Marrow Tacos, Lamb Barbacoa and a NY Strip with Chilhuacle Butter. Needless to say, their house Margarita with Blanco Tequila and Grand Marnier is outstanding. The Comedor Martini with Créma Mezcal, Jalapeño Tequila and Yellow Chartreuse will definitely put a grin on your face.

Fresa’s huge outdoor setting is ideal for any celebration. Photo courtesy of Fresa’s.
Fresa’s
I’ve lost track of how many birthdays, graduations and miscellaneous celebrations we’ve had at Fresa’s. The huge outdoor setting is ideal and the Achiote & Citrus Chicken, served whole or in portions, is the perfect party starter. Street Corn and Grilled Sweet Potatoes are delicious sides.
La Condesa
If we had to choose a favorite Margarita, La Condesa would probably edge out the other competitors. All ingredients are minutes-old fresh and they serve up some very inventive concoctions, for example Brujeria (Witch) is 400 Conejos Mezcal, lemongrass-infused tamarind, lime and passionfruit. We particularly enjoy the housemade hot-off-the-grill corn tortillas. They’re like a dessert. ¡Híjole!

Austin is home to many great Margaritas. But, in our humble opinion, La Condesa has some of the best. Photo courtesy of La Condesa.
Suerte
Founded in 2018 by acclaimed Chef Fermín Núñez, a native of Torreón, Mexico, Suerte has become a regular feature on Netflix, Food Network and the New York Times to name a few. Here you’ll find upscale Mexican cuisine: Wagyu Tacos, Duck Flautas, Smoked Beef Cheek Tostadas. Suerte translates as “luck” and we feel pretty fortunate after every visit.
HONKEY-TONKS
Hays City Store & Ice House
When we’ve had a bad day, we jump in the car and drive to Hays City to console ourselves. If we’ve had a great day, we go to celebrate. If we just want to liven things up we head there as well. It’s that kind of place.

Hill Country wildflowers on a sunset drive. Photo by Marla Norman
The drive – about 25 minutes from our house in Dripping Springs – is everything that makes the Hill Country so enchanting: big pastures, creeks, contented cows and, of course, lots of hilly countryside. If we’re driving at sunset and the sky is exploding with color, it’s absolutely sublime.
Pulling up to Hays City Store we’ll undoubtedly have to search for parking. This tiny joint in the middle of nowhere is a “Destination.” Musicians, playing anything from Country to Blues often entertain the devoted crowds. Once we have a table, we generally start with the Mexican Martini – tequila, orange liqueur, lime juice and olive brine. Or, if we’re planning to stay awhile, we might order the Margarita Sampler – four glasses that change seasonally. ¡Maravillosa!

Michel & Patrice Lévêque enjoy the Margarita sampler at Hays City Store. Photo by Marla Norman.
Burgers are a specialty, with ten different options. Delicious! Enormous bowls of Chili or Tortilla Soup are great choices, especially in cold weather. Steaks, Pork Chops and Fried Chicken are also good. Owners Tamara & Travis Tindol recently added a new bar with a pizza oven. Desserts include house-made pies or Brownie Sundaes. Michel & I usually opt for a slow ride back…the Hill Country scenery is even sweeter on the way home.
BARBECUE
True confessions: Michel & I rarely eat BBQ. I’m not sure why that is exactly, but we do have two favorite places:
Franklin Barbecue
From a humble food truck in 2009, Aaron Franklin’s BBQ now almost defines the genre. His brisket is the stuff of Texas mythology and ardent patrons line up to wait 2-3 hours for orders daily. We can attest to the fact that it is that good. Although maybe the long lines are one of the reasons we don’t have BBQ very often….
Salt Lick
When friends visit, we usually take them to another illustrious Austin BBQ place. Established in 1967 as nothing more than a huge pit, Salt Lick is now a thriving enterprise with multiple locations, vineyards, wedding venues and food products. We always go to the original Driftwood location, preferably on a weekday – on weekends over 2,000 people show up. That is not a Texas-Size exaggeration.

At Salt Lick, Bob Montgomery, Michel & Chan Cox enjoy a bottle of Clos Sainte-Magdeleine and Bouchard Volnay Caillerets. Photo by Marla Norman.
The menu offers lots of choices and combinations: Brisket, Pork, Beef or Bison Ribs, Turkey, Sausage and Chicken. Sides include potato salad, cole slaw and beans. All you can eat for $32.95 a person. Incredible! Better yet, you can BYOB. Bordeaux goes especially well with BBQ and we’ve had many Grands Crus over the years. Cheers to our friends at Salt Lick!
NOTE: Michelin recently gave stars to three Austin barbecue restaurants: La Barbecue, LeRoy & Lewis Barbecue and InterStellar BBQ. We haven’t had a chance to try these as yet, but they are definitely on our list.
LOCAL CHAINS
After Silicon Valley and New York, “Austin is the #3 region in the US for startups and entrepreneurs.” (Crowdspring Marketing) The city is particularly fertile ground for restaurant chain startups: Mama Fu, Fuddrucker’s, County Line Bar-B-Q, Chuy’s, Torchy’s Tacos, Eddie V’s Steakhouse, Plucker’s, P. Terry’s Burgers and Thundercloud Subs to mention a few. Here are two of our favorites. Keep an eye out, they may show up in your neighborhood soon.

At The Grove’s downtown location, tasting Jaboulet wines – Michel, Nicolas Jaboulet & Marla.
The Grove Wine Bar & Kitchen
So much to love about The Grove – each of its five locations maintains a 250-plus wine list (50 of which are available by the glass). Wine flights are also offered, a trio of 3-ounce pours, all at very reasonable prices. Food pairings are solid and well-priced: pastas, panini and pizzas are primary choices. If you come in for a glass of wine and something light, select from nine different bruschettas.
We happened to run into owner Reed Clemons once, while sitting at the bar of his Westlake location. Chatting with him about wine was a treat. We were drinking Gérard Bertrand’s Crémant de Limoux Brut Rosé at the time. When Reed mentioned how much of this sparkling he orders monthly, we almost fell off our stools. Cheers to great wine selections and success to The Grove!
Jack Allen’s Kitchen
Two words “Chicken Nachitos” — we were addicted to these after the first bite and often go to the Oak Hill location (There are six restaurants in all.) just for this delectable item. Jack Allen’s Classic Margarita is a perfect accompaniment. The wine list is good as well. Additionally, we’re fond of the Grilled Ruby Trout with Walnut Pesto and Rice. The same Ruby Trout is outstanding on salads. Other tasty items include Crab Stuffed Chicken and a New York Strip smothered in Green Chile Gravy.
PIZZA
Buffalina
Maybe Austin’s favorite pizza place, with classic wood-fired Neopolitan pizzas, as well as a few nicely done pastas and salads. Interestingly, Buffalina is also much appreciated for its wine list. We know, since we used to sell to them.

Wood-fired pizza oven at Pieous, who holds a Vera Pizza Napoletana certification for quality from the Italian government. Photo courtesy of Pieous.
Pieous Pizza
If you happen to be headed out west of the city – on the Wine Road, for example – be sure to stop in at Pieous. Paige & Josh Kaner have a mural on their wall proclaiming “Food is our religion.” And they mean it. So much so in fact that Pieous holds a Vera Pizza Napoletana Certification, a denomination of control (DOC) established by the Italian government to regulate quality ingredients and traditional cooking style.
And, as if that’s not enough, the Kaners also smoke their own pastrami (Do not leave without a pound.) Additionally, they bake up sourdough bread and French pastries: Croissants, Kouign Amann and Pain au Chocolat so deliciously authentic you’ll think you’re at Le Comptoir in Paris. C’est une promesse!
UPSCALE RESTAURANTS
LOTS of choices in this category. Uchi, Dai Due, June’s All Day, Launderette, Juniper, Eberly, Odd Duck and Salty Sow are all superb dining options. Here are a few we seem to find ourselves at more frequently:

Lobster Roll, Shoestring Fries & a Dry Martini at Clarke’s Oyster Bar. Photo courtesy of Clarke’s.
Clarke’s Oyster Bar
With it’s location literally deep in the heart of Texas, Austin is a ways from the Gulf Coast, so seafood restaurants are not so easy to come by. Clark’s, however, is a lovely exception. Fresh oysters and fish are flown in daily. Menu items include a beautifully indulgent Shimp & Crab Louie Salad, Cioppino, Lobster Rolls, Crudos and Ceviche along with the Catch of the Day. Pair any of these with Clarke’s stack of Shoestring Fries and feast. If you’re in a posh mood, order a selection of the Sustainable Caviar with warm Cornmeal Blini. Divine!
Shore Raw Bar & Grill
We ordered the Shore Blood Orange Margaritas the first time we stopped in — so good we immediately ordered another round. Aside from addictive Margaritas, the Shore offers a blend of Cajun and Texas flavors: Seafood & Sausage Gumbo, Po-Boys, Wagyu Ribeyes and juicy, juicy Wagyu Cheese Burgers. Prices are good and down-right cheap at happy hour. Live music five days a week.
Josephine House
We’ve spent a few memorable evenings out on the cozy patio of Josephine House, with great bottles of wine and starry skies. Doesn’t get much better. The menu is French-ish: Steak Frites, Duck Confit and Chicken Tagine are regular items. The wine list includes the cellars of partner operation, Jeffries restaurant, so is quite diverse.

The Peacock Welcome Committee at Mattie’s – a sprawling farm house lovingly recreated into a restaurant. Photo courtesty of Mattie’s.
Mattie’s
If it’s atmosphere you’re seeking, Mattie’s is your spot. Originally a sprawling farm house on 23 acres, the property is now a restaurant. Peacocks greet you in the parking lot and might even accompany you along the winding path to the house. The menu is distinctly Southern: Fried Green Tomatoes, Pimento Cheese Toast, Fried Chicken and Pork Cassoulet. Don’t forget to order Buttermilk Biscuits. Take time to enjoy the wraparound porch either before or after dinner.
Nido at the Lauren Hotel
For some of the best views of the ever-expanding Austin skyline, there’s no better spot than the Nido (Nest). Sunsets and night skies are especially impressive. Food choices include fresh fish: Grilled Branzino, Alaskan Halibut and Diver Scallops. Pasta dishes are another great option: Butternut Squash Risotto, Ravioli ai Funghi or Lamb Ragu. There’s also an outstanding cocktail menu for sipping and marveling at the scenery.

At Pecan Square Café – winemaker extraordinaire, Hubert de Boüard, owner of Château Angélus and Emmanuel Teillet, co-owner of Château La Fleur de Boüard. Photo by Marla Norman.
Pecan Square Café
A recent addition to the Austin restaurant scene, Pecan Square is built around a large grassy square and outdoor fireplace — an attractive setting any time of the year. The menu is seasonal and features local producers. Le Puy Lentil Soup is a wonderful starter, followed by Texas Lamb Sugo Pappardelle, or Grilled Pork Chops with Polenta. Really hungry diners should go for the 14-oz Texas Wagyu Steak with Béarnaise.
FINE DINING
Austin is a pretty casual city, so this category is a bit slim. But there are a few great choices and now that Michelin has raised the bar, enterprising Austinites will doubtlessly meet the challenge.

Recently awarded a Michelin star, Barley Swine serves up complex dishes all locally sourced. Here a Muscovy Duck and Duck Leg Sausage with Shishito Pepper Emulsion and Texas Peaches. Photo courtesy of Barley Swine.
Barley Swine
Owner Bryce Gilmore was born in Austin and is passionate about sourcing local ingredients. In his own words: “Our seasonal tasting menu is inspired by the ingredients from our farmers and we’re just trying not to mess them up.” Obviously the Michelin judges thought they were successful, since Barley Swine was awarded a star this past year.

Meticulously landscaped gardens at Commodore Perry’s, home to restaurant Lutie’s. Photo courtesy of Commadore Perry.
Commodore Perry Estate – Lutie’s
Spectacular property built in 1928 on 10 acres, in the shadow of downtown Austin. Lutie’s is tucked into an old oak grove with views of the well-tended gardens. Service is refined and attentive. The menu is Southwest with a focus on locally sourced ingredients, such as Quail with Guajillo & Figs, Texas Beef with Oyster Mushrooms, Yonderway Pork & Okra. The wine list is solid but on the expensive side. Be sure to take your glass and wander the beautiful grounds.
Emmer & Rye
In the same vein, Emmer & Rye offers a menu incorporating heirloom grains that are milled fresh for housemade pastas, breads, and desserts — hence the name. Offerings are changed daily but could include Smoked Half Chicken with Hakurei Turnip, Berkshire Pork, Lamb Carnitas & Faro.
Jeffrey’s
Established in 1975, Jeffrey’s has been in a class by itself for several decades. Their menu highlights wood-fired dry-aged steaks and seasonal specialties. They are especially known for their wine cellar and for one of the most extensive lists in the area.

Old fashioned elegance at Gina’s – one of our favorite Austin dining options. Photo courtesy of Gina’s.
Gina’s on Congress
Maybe our top discovery. We like to think of Gina’s as fine dining without the price tag. Easy to find on Congress, a few blocks from the capitol, this classy little spot offers a French-influenced menu featuring Gougères. Heavenly! Rabbit Rillettes, Crab Croquettes, Croquettes Madame and Wagyu Bavette with Fingerling Potatoes. Cocktails include numerous Negronis, French Old Fashioned and a serious wine list. Voila!
PICNICS
And finally, the best for last…a simple picnic on a warm evening near the Congress Avenue Bridge to observe the world’s largest urban bat colony — estimated at 1.5 million little critters. It’s a unique thrill to watch the sun set and see the scout bats emerge one by one. Then suddenly, the sky darkens and the entire colony exits. Truly an extraordinary sight. It’s just one of the many reasons (apologies in advance for the horrible pun) we’re batty 🦇 for Austin. So much to ❤️

The world’s largest urban bat colony makes its home in Austin. Come see them and us!!!
More of our favorite US destinations: Aspen, New Orleans, Portland, Marine