Seattle: Insomniacs & Dreamers
by Marla Norman & Michel Thibault
photos by Marla Norman unless otherwise noted
No wonder they’re sleepless in Seattle. It’s all that caffeine! The aroma of strong coffee filters through the downtown streets and around the piers. There are literally 1,640 coffee shops in Seattle, including the original Starbucks!!!
But consider the kinds of corporations who call this gleaming city on Elliott Bay their home: Microsoft, Amazon, Costco and Boeing to name a few – companies who have changed the world. So is it caffeine-induced sleep deprivation that affects the residents here? Or is it that the inhabitants of this lovely, misty city aren’t insomniacs at all, but some of the most inventive dreamers around?
Certainly the scenery in and around Seattle is dreamy, with lush stands of gigantic pines, the spectacular Olympic Mountains to the west and Cascade Mountains to the east. Puget Sound and Lake Washington provide meditative water views, while vast tracks of parks – such as Discovery, Magnuson and Washington Park Arboretum – make Seattle one of the greenest and most livable cities in the U.S.
We take in Seattle’s remarkable scenery and cool temperatures (It’s 90°+ back home in Austin.) Then, once our legs give out, we find a spot at The Nest Rooftop Bar in the Thompson Hotel. Here we have a bird’s eye view (🤭 I know. Horrible pun!) of the bay and ships plowing back and forth through the water. We decide this is not a coffee moment, however. The Nest cocktail list is much too appealing. Michel orders a classic Mai Tai that has him smiling. I have a St. Germain & Rosé drink called “Flew the Coupe.” (Ok! No more 🦜 jokes.) Cheers to Seattle!
For over 100 years, Pike Place Market has been one of the oldest continuously operated public markets in the US.
PIKE PLACE MARKET
Seattle’s #1 attraction is undoubtedly Pike Place Market with over 500 stalls of freshly-caught fish, meat, vegetable produce and cheeses along with every ethnic restaurant you could possibly imagine — from pizza and piroshki to dumplings and tapas. The market was founded in 1907 when farmers simply parked their wagons next to Elliott Bay and sold fresh produce. Today Pike Place spreads over nine acres and and is one of the oldest continuously operated public markets in the US.
While admiring the impressive displays of seafood, we suddenly hear shrieks and screams. LOOK OUT! Fishmongers are lobbing giant Salmon at one another while delighted tourists snap photos.
The market is also known for it’s stunning flower selection at very affordable prices. The flower vendors are primarily Hmong farmers, who provide fresh, seasonal blooms, from tulips in spring to lavender in the summer, and dried arrangements in fall.
Numerous flower vendors fill Pike Market with colorful bouquets.
Delectible fresh catch on display at Pike Market
SEATTLE’S AQUARIUM SEALS THE DEAL 🦭
As if there’s not enough to love about Seattle… we spend a morning at the Aquarium with the Harbor Seals. Adorable! Watching children and adults interact with these cute critters is incredibly heartwarming.
Pacific Northwest marine life, not surprisingly, is the Aquarium specialty. A massive 120,000-gallon tank features diver shows and native Puget Sound species. A new Ocean Pavilion houses huge sharks, rays and corals.
⭐️ NOTE: The cost to enter on weekends is $50.00 per person. Weekdays are $40.00. Not too much if you really love marine life. Maybe a bit stiff if you’re easily fished out.
Lovable Harbor Seals at the Seattle Aquarium
A 120,000-gallon tank features diver shows and native Puget Sound species
SAM – SEATTLE ART MUSEUM
Another morning Marla and I visit the Seattle Art Museum, affectionatly known as SAM. The museum boasts a collection of over 25,000 artworks, with a strong emphasis on Pacific Northwest Indigenous art. There are also superb collections of European art. A nice surprise for me personally, are a few pieces of Émile Gallé. I have been a fan of Gallé since childhood and I even own a tiny piece that I treasure.
Émile Gallé was born in the mid-1800s in Nancy, France and became one of the leaders of the Art Nouveau movement that lasted into the 20th century. He worked with furniture as well but his glass pieces, vases, bowls, light scones etc are magical. Through Cameo Glass or Cased Glass (layers of glass fused together by heat) and Glass Marquetry (layer upon layer of glass with cobalt oxide for color tones) Gallé honed his art to divine levels. An avid botanist, he created beautifully dimensional pieces illustrating trees in a forest or a gleaming sunset. Thank you, SAM! We were so pleased to discover Gallé here in Seattle.
Decorative screen with mythical beings attributed to the Naakustaa.
Émile Gallé’s cameo glass with overlay decoration as well as blown and molded cameo vases.
CHIHULY GARDEN & GLASS
From the Seattle Art Museum, we visit the Chihuly Garden & Glass, another world-renowned artist. Many visitors to Seattle come primarily to view the glass sculptures of Dale Chihuly, a native of Tacoma, Washington, whose work is included in more than 200 museum collections throughout the world. Chihuly’s Seattle museum opened in 2012 – with eight galleries and a 4,500-square-foot Glasshouse showcasing one of his largest suspended sculptures – a 100-foot-long work in a dazzling palette of colors.
Chihuly trained in Murano, Italy, where he learned the art of glass blowing in his mid-20s. He then taught and blew glass until a car accident in England deprived him of sight in his left eye. His role changed as a result and he became more of an engineer and supervisor. It was also at this time that he began to create the massive installations he’s known for today.
For example, the “Sealife” exhibit in Chihuly’s Seattle museum is his vision of an ocean floor with dozens of sea plants and creatures. The glass creations are tall and elegant, the shapes of plants bending per the tides, the sea floor rocks eaten by the ages. Truly magnificent!
Another piece entitled “Winter Brilliance” is even more striking as the sculpture is a monotone white and Chihuly’s artistry enhances the simple color making it all the more beautiful. An outdoor garden integrates glass figures with native Northwest plants, including a 500-year-old Western Cedar.
Chihuly and Gallé in the same city. What a treat!
⭐️ NOTE: The Chihuly Garden & Glass Museum also offers tickets to Seattle’s Space Needle, which is within walking distance of the museum. Built in 1962 for the World’s Fair, the Space Needle was constructed to withstand winds of up to 200 miles per hour and earthquakes of up to 9.1 magnitude. The Needle also has 25 lightning rods, making it a very safe place to be in a storm. A quick elevator takes visitors up the 605-foot ascent to an observatory and restaurants for incomparable views of the city, the Olympic Mountains, Cascade Range and Puget Sound.
Chihuly’s Seattle museum opened in 2012 – with eight galleries.
A portion of the “Sealife” exhibit — Chihuly’s vision of an ocean floor.
The 4,500-square-foot Glasshouse showcases one of Chihuly’s largest suspended sculptures.
A FEW FAVORITE RESTAURANTS
We’re staying at the Four Seasons Hotel Seattle, just across from Pike Place, so we can pop in easily, if only to grab a chowder. Marla and I have been lucky to dine in Barcelona’s La Rambla, Les Enfants Rouges in Paris, the original Eataly in Torino and Lisbon’s Bom Sucesso — Pike Place Market holds its own with all these great food centers. Here are a few spots we particularly loved:
Maximilien
An old school French restaurant — literally, since it’s been around since 1997. An experienced waitstaff and a continental menu with emphasis on seafood, of course, and great views of Puget Sound and Elliott Bay. The food is very nice — Marla’s seared Black Cod is served over a port wine sauce with a side of fingerlings and my sea Scallops on top of a butternut squash puree.
Matt’s in the Market
After getting our fill of fresh oysters with Mignonette sauce, we share an order of Cornmeal Crusted Catfish with a good aioli and, of course, the seafood chowder. It is the finest chowder we’ve sampled in Seattle with a clear but tasty broth with clams, shrimp, scallops and bacon. The difference with other chowders is the Brunoise Potatoes (diced very thin) as it gives a crispiness to compliment the broth. Super good!
Dinner entrées at Matt’s always include at least one catch of the day – Wild Sockeye Salmon or Alaskan Halibut, most likely. Other offerings might include Bacon Wrapped Rabbit with Red Cabbage & Parsnips, Seafood Stew with Coconut Curry & Eggplant Chips or Grilled Beef Tenderloin. The wine list is a marvelous introduction to the best of Washington State wines.
Matt’s in the Market – a local favorite since 1996 at Pike Market.
Fresh Clams at Matts in the Market.
Athenian Seafood Restaurant & Bar
For some of the best views of Elliott Bay and knockout sunsets we enjoy the bar at the Athenian Restaurant for appetizers and small plates. We don’t snap a selfie next to the plaque that marks the spot where Tom Hanks filmed a scene for “Sleepless in Seattle” — but we have fun watching all the other tourists who do.
Lola
A few blocks outside of Pike’s Market, James Beard Award-winning chef Tom Douglas is a culinary tour de force in Seattle. His restaurant Lola is one of his six restaurants, along with a cooking school called Hot Stove Society and an organic farm. An anchor for Hotel Andra, Lola is poshly designed, with dark leather booths and artful neon light fixtures.
The food is a seemingly incongruous mix of Pacific Northwest, Greek and Moroccan cuisines. But under Douglas’ deft hand, it works perfectly – examples of creative blending include Washington Sockeye Salmon with Lentils and Chanterelles, Berkshire Pork with Honey-Harissa and Halloumi Cheese Kalamata Figs, or a Tajine of Goat Meat with Mustard & Rosemary. And all served daily, from 7:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. What’s not to love!
In a town known for seafood, Sushi Kashiba is considered one of the best! Photo courtesy of Sushi Kashiba.
Shiro Kashiba — the “Grandfather of Seattle Sushi”. Photo courtesy of Sushi Kashiba.
Sushi Kashiba
Easily the best meal of our trip!!! Chef-Owner Shiro Kashiba is known as the “Grandfather of Seattle Sushi” and the “Sensei of Sushi” (Master Chef) All deserved accolades. Several times a week, Kashiba provides an “Omakase Experience” and personally presides over a unique menu (no substitutions allowed). Dishes here are incredibly pure with a sweet brine. A tuna set featuring the bluefin variety is served as toro (the belly) and otoro (even fattier and more decadent). Salmon likewise is served three ways. Chef Kashiba prepares dishes in seconds, barely touching the fish — just astonishing. Observing the other diners under his spell is also entertaining.
⭐️ NOTE: Be sure to make reservations for Sushi Kashiba well in advance. Three services are available at 5:00, 7:00 & 9:00 p.m. Wednesday-Monday.
Fran’s Chocolates
Conveniently located in the Four Seasons Hotel, Fran’s is way too tempting — we find ourselves sampling chocolate at least once a day. Handmade chocolates flavored with candied orange, or candied lemon and salted caramel. We buy many as gifts only to devour them later in our room. 😋
Our last night in Seattle, we find ourselves back at The Nest Rooftop Bar …. this time for a light supper and more knock-out views. The cocktail list continues to provide inspiration. We try the “Aviator ” made with mezcal, Ancho Reyes, tequila, vanilla, lime and pineapple. Wow!
From our perch (one final 🦜 pun) we view a sunset that briefly lights up the sky, followed by an evening mist and eventually heavy fog — an ethereal scene that has us dreaming about a return trip to Seattle.
