Dordogne: La Douce France
by Michel Thibault & Marla Norman
For French-born folks like me, the Dordogne has always had a special appeal. It’s what French people call “La Douce France” — the sweet Old Country. Far from crowded cities, Dordogne is a succession of small villages along the river, grand castles perched atop hillsides and hamlets built into the sides of mountains.
Paris, Lyon and even Provence claim to have the best cuisine, but Dordogne is on par with all of them. The truth is, the land of foie gras and Périgord truffles has a built in advantage over any competitor. The Cepes Mushrooms and walnuts, used for oils and liqueurs, give Dordogne another edge. I could happily spend a month here doing nothing else but eating…
Périgord truffles, foie gras and country cheeses are specialties of the Dordogne region and one of the primary tourist attractions. Photo by Marla Norman.
A quick word about the river for which the region is named — the Dordogne is one of France’s mightiest waterways, rising from the volcanoes of the Massif Central and flowing west for 300 miles, as far as the Gironde estuary, near Bordeaux. This vast river feeds orchards, woodlands, lush farmlands and vineyards — although most wineries are located on the western side, the area adjacent to Castillon and Saint-Émilion.
As is the case with much of France, the earliest vines in Dordogne were planted by the Romans. The main varietals for reds are Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. There is also an interesting blend of these main varietals plus Malbec called Pécharmant, a local specialty with very good aging capabilities.
For whites, it is the traditional Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle. One of the better whites is produced in the town of Monbazillac, where Château Tirecul La Gravière Cuvée Madame garnered a 100-points rating from Robert Parker for their 1995 vintage when he compared it to the esteemed Château d’Yquem. Across the road from Château Tirecul La Gravière is Château de Monbazillac, also producing top quality wines. Both estates are definitely worth a visit and a tasting.
Marla and I start our tour on this western edge of Dordogne where the largest town is Bergerac, made famous by the play “Cyrano de Bergerac” — the guy with the “distinctive” nose. We’ve driven several hours from Bordeaux, so lunch is our top priority. We head straight to Le Vin’Quatre, a place known for local specialties, in particular the meaty Cepes mushrooms and Périgord truffles.
After lunch, we drive to Tremolat – a place so tiny it’s barely a village, but the hotel here – Le Vieux Logis is ideal. With beautifully done-up rooms, great service and an excellent restaurant, a perfect base for exploring Dordogne.
Le Vieux Logis, tucked away in the tiny village of Tremolat, offers first class amenities and a quiet retreat. Photo by Marla Norman.
LAND OF A THOUSAND CASTLES
The French are known for precision. Their meticulous nature is essential to haute gastronomy and culinary science. The word “précis” is frequently used by vignerons — the ultimate goal in winemaking.
Architectural wonders such as the Eiffel Tower, Versailles, Notre Dame de Paris, Mont-Saint-Michel, Notre Dame de Rouen, etc. etc. are obvious products of an exact, absolute vision. The canon of French artists: Boucher, David, Delacroix, Manet, Renoir, Monet, Cézanne, Toulouse-Lautrec, Matisse on and on – are tributes to the French passion for creativity, but within the context of a deliberate, thoughtful purpose.
All to say, that when Michel and I began researching Dordogne, I was surprised to see the phrase “Land of a Thousand Castles” pop up repeatedly. “Aha!” I thought, “Just like everyone else, the French have succumbed to exaggeration and hyperbole.”
But in fact, the phrase is absolutely “précis.” There are over 1,000 castles or châteaux in Dordogne. The region literally claims the greatest density of castles and fortresses in Europe. Why? The reason dates back to an event fundamental to French history: The Hundred Years War.
This century-long conflict stemmed from the English invasion of France, with the first “official” battle dating to 1337 in Bergerac. The last was in 1453 at Castillon la Bataille — a period of 116 years to be exact. From beginning to end, Dordogne was the scene for much of the fighting. As a consequence, fortresses were built by both sides, with the Dordogne River often creating a natural boundary.
Château de Beynac – exceptionally well preserved and still one of the most formidable castles in Dordogne. Photo courtesy of Château de Beynac.
Château de Beynac
Our first castle stop is one of the best preserved in the region, Château de Beynac. Situated on a sheer limestone cliff high above the surrounding valley, Beynac is still an awe-inspiring sight — when the fortress was built in the 12th century, it was the tallest of any medieval construction.
During the war, Beynac belonged to the French armies. But directly across, on the opposite bank of the Dordogne River is another impressive fortress, Château de Castelnaud, held by the English. Standing in the courtyard of Beynac looking at nearby Castelnaud, it’s easy to imagine how incredibly dangerous life must have been at that time.
Beynac’s most famous resident was King Richard I, better known as Richard the Lionhearted. The son of Henry II and French Queen Eleanor of Aquitaine, this English King spent very little of his life in his native country. He lived primarily in the Middle-East, fighting in the Crusades and eventually in Dordogne, where he battled against Philip of France to maintain English rule. He died suppressing a revolt of French nobles in 1199 — with his demise, Château de Beynac reverted to the French. Even a century prior to the official beginning of the Hundred Years War, fighting in Dordogne was quite common.
Now, some 800 years later, you can return to the medieval times of Richard the Lionhearted at Château de Beynac, where reconstruction of the kitchen and salons are so authentic, you’ll feel as if the knights and warriors will return from battle at any moment.
Château de Beynac’s restored medieval kitchen. Photo by Marla Norman.
The castle also features 15th century artwork, including a chapel entirely covered with frescoes depicting a Pietà and a rendition of the Last Supper. At one time, the famous “La Dame à la Licorne” (The Lady and the Unicorn) were treasures of Beynac. The six extraordinary Flemish tapestries are now housed at the Musée de Cluny in Paris. Other impressive tapestries are still on display at the Château.
Château de la Roque-Gageac
Our next stop is picturesque, La Roque-Gageac, which is listed as one of the “Plus Beaux Villages de France” — an official collection of France’s loveliest villages that also offer at least two national heritage sites. Like Beynac, La Roque-Gageac fortress was built in the 12th century and features a moat, of course, parapet walks and impressive towers. The charming village that evolved around the fort consists of cobblestone streets, Troglodyte homes, carved out of the mountains and a port that was once one of Dordogne’s busiest trading centers.
We find a table at La Belle Étoile. The food is excellent and the views of the Dordogne River are spectacular. Along with our duck and Vin de Noix (Walnut Liqueur) we enjoy watching the “Gabarre” sailing up the waterway. These flat-bottomed boats were once used to transport lumber, salt and wine. Today, they provide tourists with a cruise past the numerous castles and iconic sights.
Château de Marqueyssac
Our last stop of the day is Château de Marqueyssac and it’s other-worldly gardens. Over 22 hectares (55 acres) with beautifully landscaped paths that include 150,000 hand-pruned boxwoods. Mind boggling! Even more wondrous are the views — at 400 feet above the Dordogne River, we have panoramic views of all the châteaux we’ve just visited.
Marqueyssac’s story begins in 1692, when Bertrand Vernet arrived during the siege of nearby Sarlat. After selecting a hilltop promontory for yet another fortress, he began installing gardens. His antidote to the wars, perhaps? To bring his inspiration to fruition, Vernet employed a landscape designer named Porcher — his first name has been lost over time, but he had trained with André Le Nôtre, architect of the gardens at Châteaux Versailles and Fontainebleau, as well as the Tuileries in Paris.
Château de Marqueyssac, 22 hectares (55 acres) with 150,000 hand-pruned boxwoods. Photo by Marla Norman
We wander along the seemingly endless paths, encountering magnificently plumed peacocks along the way. Equally fascinating are teams of gardeners with shears, meticulously pruning the hundreds upon hundreds of shrubs. We could have easily spent the day in the green labyrinths of Marqueyssac.
Back at our hotel in Tremolat, we have dinner out on the terrace. As twilight sets in, all we hear are a few murmurs from tree frogs and an occasional fish splashing in a nearby brook. Hard to imagine now that this quiet haven was immersed in war for over three centuries. We make a toast to many, many more centuries of peace and La Douce France.
Twilight dinner at Le Vieux Logis in Tremolat. Photo by Marla Norman
Coming up next, more on Dordogne: Rocamadour, Périgueux and Sarlat-la-Canéda.
