Ravello: Rhapsody in Blue

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by Marla Norman & Michel Thibault

The rain is falling in cold grey sheets as we leave Orvieto – the same rain we’ve endured for three days. Our memories of Umbria are soggy at best. Promising ourselves we’ll go back in better weather, we head south toward the Amalfi Coast hoping to find the sun. Sure enough, just outside Rome, the sky clears.

Continuing on past Naples, we catch a glimpse of the sparkling Mediterranean. Then, as we approach the coastal range, the road begins to narrow, turning into one tight hairpin curve after another.

Michel cautiously observes the speed limit at first, but after being passed twice by aggressive Italian drivers — honking and making interesting gestures — he’s eager to pick up the pace. (Those of you who toured with us in past years will remember his love for Formula 1.) Continuing our climb, I have a white knuckle grip on the dashboard. It seems as if we might plunge off the cliffs any second. Michel, however, is blissfully singing (and driving) his French version of Mambo Italiano.

Fortunately, the scenery is a magnificent distraction. With plunging cliffs and infinite blue skies merging into a vast, unending sea, it’s easy to understand the allure of Amalfi.

WHERE THE HECK IS OUR HOTEL?

The Amalfi Coast stretches 30 miles along the southern tip of the Italian peninsula. Nine cities, more or less, dot the coastline. The better-known include Sorrento, Praiano, Positano and Ravello. We have decided to stay in Ravello since it draws fewer tourists and, even though we’re arriving off-season, crowds along Amalfi are notorious year round.

We’ve reserved a room at the Villa Cimbrone, a five-star property located at the very top of Ravello. BUT, somehow we can’t seem to find it. Our GPS keeps routing us to a cul-de-sac in the middle of the village with no visible roads beyond. After several attempts, we finally call the hotel and ask for directions. “Ovviamente no! You can not drive to the hotel,” the manager tells us brusquely. “Go to the bus station at the entrance of the village and park your car. Take the bus back to the village and our valet will be waiting for you.”

We’re a little confused (and exhausted after a 5-hour drive) but we do as he says: park the car, take the bus and find the valet who is in a tiny golf cart. “Wow! Is there room for us and the luggage?” we ask.

“Certamente no!” he says, rolling his eyes. “You walk.”

We stare at the long path winding up the side of the hill. “How many steps are there?”

“2,000,” he confirms, then jumps in the cart and takes off down a mysterious back road.

In the end, he wasn’t exaggerating by much… There are probably about 2,000 steps from the village of Ravello to Villa Cimbrone — the path is a bit over a mile long. We make frequent stops, enjoy a glorious sunset along the way and eventually make it to the top. Thankfully the Villa is so incredibly lovely it’s worth every step!

Villa Cimbrone, dating back to the 11th century, graces the highest point of Ravello. Photo courtesy of Villa Cimbrone.

The estate sits on a rocky cliff or “cimbronium” and is named for this landscape feature. Dating back to the 11th century, Cimbrone first belonged to noble families, then later became part of Monastero di Santa Chiara. In the early 20th century, Ernest William Beckett (later Lord Grimthorpe) acquired the property and began an extensive remodel. He also hosted an impressive number of celebrities including D.H. Lawrence, Henry Moore, T.S. Eliot, Coco Chanel and Winston Churchill. Greta Garbo and Leopold Stokowski spent several months at Villa Cimbrone in the late 1930s – hiding from the public. (After our experience with the 2,000 steps, we understand completely how the two lovers eluded paparazzi!!)

In 1960, Lord Grimthorpe hired hotelier Marco Vuilleumier to serve as a curator. Vuilleumier later purchased Villa Cimbrone and established a hotel. Now, the fifth generation of the family continues to manage the property.

As we wait for our room (there are 19 in all) we explore the meticulously landscaped gardens and visit the famous Terrazza dell’Infinito (Infinity Terrace). Novelist Gore Vidal, who lived in Ravello for over 30 years, vividly describes the experience: “The most beautiful place that I have ever seen in all my travels is the view from the belvedere of the Villa Cimbrone on a bright winter’s day when the sky and the sea are each so vividly blue that it’s not possible to tell one from the other.”

RAVISHING RAVELLO

Finally in our room – which is quite spacious with two balconies – we continue to marvel at the ocean views and gardens vistas. We also realize we’re famished. We head downstairs to the hotel bar, which is small, but charming.

Michel orders Champagne and hamburgers – an absolutely perfect combination in that particular moment. A bit later, a jazz pianist begins to play. Since it’s the end of the season, we’re the only diners — and feeling really privileged to have the place to ourselves. We chat with the musician, who is incredibly talented. His repertoire is impressive and he indulges us with one request after another.

It’s a wonderful finale to a very long day. With the bottle of Champagne, music and dreamy setting, our aches and pains simply fade away….

The following morning, we breakfast on a terrace with more heart stopping views of the Mediterranean. Then, we head back down to the village, bravely retracing the 2,000 steps we had taken the previous day.

Breakfast with a view. Photo courtesy of Villa Cimbrone.

The path to the village is lined with cute boutiques, ceramics shops and wine stores. Lots to explore along the way. Crowning the hillside overlooking the piazza is Auditorium Oscar Niemeyer. The dramatically modern structure is a venue for the famed Ravello Music Festival, which runs for two months each summer.

As we reach the main plaza, a wedding is taking place at the Duomo. A small crowd assembled outside the cathedral begins to applaud as the bride and groom enjoy a long, passionate kiss – the romantic setting provides plenty of inspiration, no doubt.

Later, we tour the Duomo, built in 1086 in honor of San Pantaleone. Medieval frescoes have survived the centuries. A 12th century bronze door is decorated with 54 panels depicting Biblical stories. Particularly impressive is the church nave with not one, but two pulpits, both with exquisite mosaics. The Duomo’s three-story bell tower dominates the village and chimes on the hour… reminding us to take advantage of every minute in this magical place.

Duomo San Pantaleone, built in 1086. Photo by Marla Norman.

MORE RAVELLO

Continuing our walk through the village, Marla and I spot – Villa Rufolo – known for hosting events during the Ravello Music Festival. We decide to have a drink and investigate, but as soon as we see the menu, we choose to lunch there. A wise decision since the food is terrific.

We start with a Caprese Salad, fresh Mozzarella di Bufala and Fried Shrimp. But the Seabass is the star of the meal, with the whole fish cooked in salt crust and served with a side of lemon risotto.

Whole Seabass baked in salt at Villa Rufolo. Photo by Marla Norman.

The Maitre D’ is extremely friendly and when we mention to him we are in the wine business, he takes us to visit the cellar, filled with beautiful selections. We follow his advice and order the Valentini 2019 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. I usually am not too keen on Trebbiano as I have had it in France, where it is called Ugni Blanc and is primarily used to make Cognac.

The grape grows easily and in large quantites and generally makes a wine of straw color with a mild body and high acidity. However, this Valentini is much more than that, a lively wine of brilliance with persistent flavors. A real find, although at least in restaurant settings quite pricey. I think you can still find it in the US for a decent price but in Italy, it is extremely sought after and very expensive.

Remarkable views, fantastic menu and great service at Villa Rufolo.

In the end, I think what we enjoy most is the complete experience at Villa Rufolo, i.e. our seating on the terrace overlooking the sea with aromas of white flowers in the air, a friendly staff, a glass of wine and even the joyful sounds of children playing down below — it all seems to be there for us! (We also note that parking is available on site, in case we want to avoid the 2,000 steps on our next visit.)

The last night of our stay, we dine at the Michelin-star restaurant at Villa Cimbrone. The food is superb from A to Z. Highlights are the Riso Ravello, a dish that shows off the wealth of the organic gardens of the Villa: The Carnaroli rice, a highly prized hard-grained rice used for Risotto, is creamed and served in an infusion of lemon, elderflower, wild flowers and garden herbs. Unbelievable!

The Amberjack belly or Ventresca di Ricciola is served on a whole wheat biscuit (Agerola) and its flavors are extremely refined. Our two entrées, Lamb with Roasted Croquette & Mushrooms and Turbot with Bruschetta & Zucchini Flower with aromatic Nepetella Mint (all edible) are witnesses of this excellent restaurant.

The wine list is excellent as well. After the glass of go-to Franciacorta Antica Fratta Rosé, we opt for the local Ettore Sammarco Ravello Rosso Riserva Selva delle Monache 2019 — the wine is just a perfect match.

At Villa Cimbrone’s Il Flauto di Pan, Sommelier Diego Apicella carefully decants wine. Photo by Marla Norman.

Finally though, as good as the food and wine are, the service is what I will remember the most about Il Flauto di Pan (the restaurant’s name). Efficient, seemingly effortless, the pleasant staff moves around professionally, is always helpful and their service techniques are flawless. Clients spend a lot of money in this type of restaurant and it is immensely pleasurable to be rewarded with an evening that makes you feel special.

At the end of our stay, packing up and leaving is hard. We are ready to move in. Taking a final stroll on the Terrazza dell’Infinito, we say our good-byes. I have to say, however, I am looking forward to the drive back across the mountains. I want to discover how it is young Italian men get to be old when they drive 30 miles over the speed limit on dangerous roads…in a Fiat!!

As for myself, I’ve promised Marla not to speed. If I play Gershwin instead of Mambos maybe she won’t notice how fast I’m driving. 😎