Normandy: Rouen, Bayeux & the World’s Best Butter
Beautiful Bayeux and its cathedral on the Aure River.
by Michel Thibault & Marla Norman
Photos by Marla Norman unless otherwise credited
Touring Normandy, the first thought that comes to mind is “Green” !!
The color that adorns all the fields is a surreal green — one with sheen and richness. To complete the tableau is the color of the cows. Many are multicolored, white with black or brown spots. They look like the stars of a gorgeous painting.
Marla and I are mesmerized by these beautiful creatures, who by the way, are laden with that special milk from which the famed Normandy cheeses are made: Pont-l’Évêque and Livarot (Both a little stinky, but once you get over the smell, the flavor is astounding!) There is also Neufchâtel and, of course, Camembert.
Normandy Camembert has nothing to do with the bland, pasty, tasteless sort of cheese we buy here in our grocery stores. This is Camembert Fermier, or artisadairynal Camembert — brown rind with a nutty flavor and creamy center, with a texture of condensed milk, a nose of grass and forest. Total pleasure.
Normandy cows — pretty as a picture.
Neufchâtel is made from “lait cru” (raw milk) and can be recognized by its heart shape. American consumers might prefer it to other Normandy cheeses as its flavor, though pronounced, is milder. The region it comes from (Pays de Bray in Normandy) has clay soil which lends itself better to raising dairy cows than most places.
Pont-l’Évêque and Livarot are both washed-rind cheeses, meaning that during the ageing process the rind is washed with a salt solution, which seals the cheese and allows natural bacteria to create creamy textures and renders full flavor. Note that Pont-l’Évêque is a raw-milk cheese while most Livarot is not.
There is a lot of misinformation regarding raw milk. The cheese you often find in grocery stores is made from milk that is flash-cooked at high temperatures. The end result is a cheese with little flavor. Better shops feature cheeses where the mik has been slowly cooked, preserving more of the flavor. Of course, slow cooking is also more expensive so the cheese will be pricier.
Finally, there is raw milk cheese — no cooking here so the bacteria in the cheese lives. However, what most people do not know is that the bacteria in cheese has a life span — usually around 40 days. After this period, the bacteria self-destructs and the cheese is then perfectly safe to eat. Better yet, it retains all the aromas and flavor of the terroir on which the cows graze.
Bordier cheese shop in Saint-Malo. Heaven on earth.
MAISON BORDIER
Large cheese factories produce flash-cooked cheese, while artisan producers work with raw milk — that tells you the story. One of the brightest stars of the dairy world is Maison Bordier. Their cheeses and butters are sought after throughout the world. Michelin-star chefs and five-star hotels all boast of using Bordier in their products. Why?
The secret is in the care, starting with organic mik from selected farms in Normandy, Brittany and the Loire Valley. Then, what really separates Bordier from others is the handling, with extensive time spent kneading the butter. The end result is a fluffy, aerated butter that offers creaminess and unloads all kinds of flavors.
The butter is also salted (coarse salt) whereby its fat content rejects the water the salt contains to provide even more concentrated flavor. Bordier butter is then broken into large pieces to preserve integrity and taste. In the final step, the butter is shaped as each client requests, whether squares, cones, etc. Bordier also offers a selection of flavored butter, such as seaweed, tomato basil and pineapple rum — essentially aiding chefs in their creative pursuits.
Jean-Yves Bordier, owner of Maison Bordier, began his career as a cheese affineur – someone specializing in the ageing of cheeses. His company has a number of retail shops in Saint-Malo and other cities. Don’t miss out on a visit and tasting. Bordier butter as well as Isigny sur Mer (another great Normandy butter) are available online through these distributors: Le Gourmet Central and The French Pantry.
Bordier Butter — ready to ship around the world.
NORMANDY CIDERS
Normandy is not only about cheese. There are millions of apples of different varieties and their fruit makes unbelievable ciders. My favorite is Cidre Bouché — an unfiltered, unpasturized cider. Its flavors are reminiscent of wood, cocoa, citrus and, of course, apple. Normandy ciders can be slightly off-putting, as there is a slight farm flavor — “cidre fermier.”
In America, we have the pleasure of having access to one of the very best Cider producers — Eric Bordelet. Eric, once a well known sommelier in a top Paris restaurant, found his calling upon returning to his family estate and orchards in Normandy in the early 90s and making ciders from apples and pears. Working organically and biodynamically, he started planting pure varietals only (non-hybrid trees).
Eric Bordelet produces artisanal ciders. Photo courtesy of Domaine Eric Bordelet.
Some of Bordelet’s orchards are over 50-years old now and the fruit produced has no rival. Eric works with 20-plus varieties of apples and 14 varieties of pears, giving him the opportunity to make special blends and special cuvées, very reminiscent of Grands Crus wines. Bordelet ciders are available in cider shops like Press then Press Cider Shop, and top wine retailers like K & L, Astor Wine and Spirits, Westchester Wine and others.
Calvados is another byproduct of these gorgeous apples. The French call it simply “Calva.” Calvados is made from distilled, fermented apple cider — in a process similar to Cognac. To be approved as Calvados, the cider must be barrel-aged for at least two years. Many are aged for much longer. Spice, vanilla and baked apples are the predominant flavors.
Normandy is one of the primary reasons France is called the breadbasket of Europe — a wealth of fresh, varied foods with distinctive flavors!
Rouen’s Notre-Dame Cathedral features three towers, including the tallest spire in France. Photo courtesy of Normandy Tourism.
ROUEN: CAPITAL OF NORMANDY
To kick off our Normandy tour, Michel and I spend a day in the regional capital of Rouen. Founded by the Romans around 100 AD, Rouen became one of the largest ports in medieval Europe. The city’s strategic location on both the northern Atlantic and the River Seine has always been an essential trade route.
Because of its importance, Rouen sustained tremendous damage during World War II. Luckily, a number of medieval half-timber houses survived and the city’s Gros-Horloge, one of the oldest clocks in Europe, was spared. Rouen’s beloved cathedral has been meticulously restored.
Rouen’s Gros-Horloge, one of the oldest clocks in Europe.
Claude Monet painted the Notre-Dame de Rouen Cathedral some 30 times and it’s easy to understand his fascination. The church is renowned for its three towers, each completely different. The oldest of the three, Saint- Romain Tower, dates back to the 12th century.
The second tower was struck by lightning and burned down. Famously, funds to replace the tower were donated by citizens paying for the privilege of eating butter during Lent. (As we know, the butter in Normandy is that good!!) The tower, still referred to as Tour de Beurre (Butter Tower), was completed in the 17th century.
The tallest of the three, Lantern Tower, was constructed in the 13th century. A cast-iron tour de force at 490-feet high, it remains the tallest spire in France. There are also four smaller towers called “tourelles” used to support the main towers.
The interior of the cathedral is considered one of the best examples of High Gothic style — soaring heights, intricate stone carvings and multiple stained glass windows.
Notre-Dame de Rouen also houses a sarcophagus bearing the image of King Richard I, better known as Richard the Lionhearted. Interestingly, only his heart is interred here — his personal request because of his “love for Normandy.” Richard’s other remains are at Fontevraud Abbey in Anjou, France.
Truth be told, we don’t spend much time looking for the departed King. “His mother was French (Eleanor of Aquitaine), but he fought for the English against France,” Michel reminds me. And we move on…
Notre-Dame de Rouen Cathedral interiors – considered one of the best examples of High Gothic style.
One of Monet’s 30 interpretations of Notre-Dame de Rouen featured in the Musée des Beaux-Arts.
After touring the cathedral, we visit the Musée des Beaux-Arts. In addition to Monet, a number of French Impressionists found inspiration in Normandy. Works by Renoir, Sisley, Pissarro, Gaugin and Caillebotte are on display in the museum collection — well worth a visit.
At the end of the day, we find ourselves in Rouen’s large main plaza along with dozens of local residents — all enjoying a warm, lovely evening. We’ve discovered a restaurant called “Le Bistrot de La Pucelle” (The Bistro of The Virgin) — a spot we highly recommend.
Of course, any French person knows “La Pucelle” can only refer to one individual – Jeanne d’Arc. Historians to this day are in awe of this audacious teenager. How did a 17 year-old illiterate peasant girl manage to rally a demoralized French army to fight off the English and triumph in the Hundred Years War? Remarkable!
Tragically, Jeanne’s career only lasted two years. She was captured and executed in Rouen. A church in her honor marks the place where she was burned at the stake in 1431. There is no tomb. The English, fearing her influence, burned her remains twice and then threw the ashes in the Seine River. Ironically, Jeanne is still highly revered today. Named the patron saint of France, memorials in her honor are everywhere, from grand cathedrals to the smallest villages.
Alfesco dining at Le Bistrot de La Pucelle.
Memorial to Jeanne d’Arc at the Notre-Dame de Rouen Cathedral.
THE BAYEUX TAPESTRY
Long before England invaded France during the Hundred Years War from 1337-1453, the French invaded England in 1066 and successfully ruled for over 400 years. This great conquest is the theme of the tapestry on display at the Musée de la Tapisserie de Bayeux.
Consisting of 58 embroidered panels, that stretch to 230-feet long, the tapestry portrays in vivid detail William of Normandy’s claim to the English throne and his eventual victory. We see William assembling his fleet, invading England and at last triumphing in the Battle of Hastings.
From a historian’s perspective, the panels provide an unequaled record of medieval clothing, lifestyles and fantastic creatures that may or may not have existed. Be sure to pick up the audio guide when visiting. The narration is lively and full of fascinating details. And, if possible go before September 2025. The museum is scheduled for extensive renovation and won’t open until October 2027.
Also worth a visit is the city’s Notre-Dame Cathedral — the church towers over Bayeux and is a spectacular blend of Norman and Gothic architecture. Moreover, for almost seven centuries, the Bayeux Tapestry hung there as well.
Harold of England swearing an oath of allegiance to William of Normandy.
William decides to invade England after Harold renounces his oath.
Notre-Dame de Bayeux, where the Tapestry hung for seven hundred years.
Bayeux is also a good base for excursions to World War II sites. The Bayeux War Cemetery, the largest commonwealth war graves cemetery in France, the Bayeux Memorial Museum for the Battle of Normandy, and the Normandy American Cemetery are all prominent locations and offer insights into the events of the war.
Miraculously, Bayeux was left unharmed during the war and its beautiful medieval old town remains intact. During our stay we found an excellent restaurant — Le Pommier (The Apple Tree) — wonderful local seafood and an attentive staff.
While chatting with the owner of Le Pommier, we noted the many Americans visiting the area. “Oh yes!” she agreed. “We love Americans. No one here has forgotten the sacrifices of those young men and women or what they did for us here in France and for freedom in the world.”
It was a heartwarming finale to our time in Bayeux…
Michel enjoys Normandy seafood and cider at Le Pommier in Bayeux.
