Milan: Duomos, Da Vinci & Cucina Divina
Text by Marla Norman & Michel Thibault
Photos by Marla Norman
“Milano is like a big lasagna,” our guide tells us, with a cheeky grin. “Buildings are torn down, something else built on top of it, layer after layer for centuries.”
We’re standing at Porta Magenta, which served as the entrance to Milan during the Roman era beginning in 200 BC. Eventually the city became the capital of the Western Roman Empire. “However,” our guide informs us, “Milan was actually founded by the Celts in 590 BC. That’s about 2,615 years ago – lots of layers,” She confirms and leads us down another street.
Our excellent WALKS OF ITALY guide explaining the many ages of Milan…just like lasagna.
But I’ve gotten way ahead of our story. And a most inauspicious start….
After a delayed flight left us stuck at Paris CDG for some five hours, we finally arrive in Milan only to discover that our luggage has been left behind. A lonely janitor, the only person in Baggage Claim, directs us to Lost & Found — located deep in a labyrinth under the airport. There we queue up with a dozen other cranky travelers, file our claim and then spend another hour trying to find the rental cars.
At last, we locate Enterprise and are in our car about to make the 40 minute drive to the city center when we realize that almost nothing is working on the dashboard.
“Oh yes! We switch it to English for you,” an attendant explains helpfully.”
“ Ummm… but there’s nothing. No lights. No English. No nothing”
“After checking, the attendant agrees. “Sì, un grosso problema.” He climbs into the front seat and fiddles with the dashboard screen. He calls for a colleague who joins him. Still no luck. Another co-worker climbs into the car. All three chatter, reboot and push more buttons.
Just as we’re about to give up and walk to a nearby hotel we hear: “Pronto!!! It’s working!!! But it’s again Italian. No English. It’s not a problem for you?”
We quickly decide our very limited Italian will have to do and take off. We manage to find our hotel — The Glamore Milano where a valet meets us immediately as we pull up. A bellman efficiently escorts us through an elegant courtyard and into…. a large closet?!?!
In the tiny check-in area – for lack of a better description – a smiling clerk greets us cordially, says our room is ready and ushers us into a small elevator, down a dark hallway and, after punching an incredibly complex code into a key pad, opens the door to our room.
I hold my breath – ready for anything. But, in fact it’s lovely — a modern, spacious suite with Prosecco chilling on the bar. “Now for the best,” our escort announces and dramatically opens curtains to reveal a stunning view of the Duomo.
Milano’s Duomo by night — something magical.
We walk out to the balcony and stare at a vision – the cathedral is brilliantly lit up — magical, dream-like. Reflections of the massive structure glitter across the dark piazza, illuminating the night. Tired as we are, we spend the next few hours on the balcony sipping our wine and treasuring the moment.
It’s been a tough start to the trip. We still don’t have luggage and our rental car speaks to us in Italian. But we’re learning the “Art of Domani.” Enjoying the here and now. We’ll figure out the rest tomorrow.
GOTTA L.O.V.E. IT
Meanwhile, back to our guide…who is explaining a rather surprising sculpture, some 36 feet tall, in the middle of the Piazza degli Affari, home of the Italian Stock Exchange.
In 2010, artist Maurizio Cattelan created a sculpture he named L.O.V.E an acronym for “Freedom. Hatred. Revenge. Eternity.” The gigantic piece is a hand with graphically severed fingers, aside from the notable exception of the middle finger. Predictably, the work quickly became known as “Il Dito” (The Finger).
Maurizio Cattelan’s L.O.V.E. sculpture, also known as “Il Dito.”
Cattelan has never discussed the meaning of his sculpture, but the most commonly accepted interpretation is that it is a visual representation of the Fascist/Nazi salute and a reaction to the horrors of that era. Moreover, Cattelan insisted that his sculpture be placed in front of the Italian Stock Exchange, most likely to protest the government’s management of the devastating crash of 2007-2008.
Since its installation, the sculpture has taken on a life of its own and has been featured in numerous events, exhibits, films, etc. We can attest to the fact that the gigantic Il Dito is a powerfully memorable image.
DA VINCI’S “IL CENACOLO”
Milan is awash in art treasures and creative energy, but one single work dominates all the others: Da Vinci’s Last Supper. The Renaissance genius’ largest mural is also considered pivotal in its mastery of perspective and display of human emotion. The painting, housed in the Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie, represents Christ’s last evening with his Twelve Apostles — specifically the moment he announces that one member of the group will betray him. Da Vinci masterfully depicts the reaction of each apostle.
Leonardo da Vinci’s groundbreaking mural – “Il Cenacolo” The Last Supper.
This remarkable mural was painted with tempera and oil that allowed Da Vinci to make numerous changes but, tragically, never completely adhered to the wall. As a result, soon after the painting was completed in 1498, it began to deteriorate.
By the late 1970s, the mural was so badly damaged that an intensive restoration effort was initiated and finally completed in 1999 — 21 years later. Early on, the task was to verify the original look of the painting using infrared reflectoscopy and microscopic core-samples. Then, experts meticulously cleaned and removed layers of previous restoration attempts to reveal as much of Da Vinci’s work as possible, while carefully adding color in areas where the original paint was too damaged to recover.
Now, Santa Maria delle Grazie allows visitors to book 15-minute visits to view this world-class painting. As we walk into the ancient refectory, Michel and I are taken aback by the life-sized figures. We study all the details and emotions of each portrait. I snap dozens of pictures, but suddenly the 15 minutes have expired. Later, discussing our impressions, Michel & I conclude that short as it is, even 15 minutes is unforgettable.
THE GRANDILOQUENT DUOMO
An unrivaled architectural feat, the Duomo di Milano is the fourth largest cathedral in the world. By comparison, Saint Peter’s in Rome is #1 on the list of gigantic cathedrals, but this ornate Gothic structure with its 135 marble spires and 2,245 marble statues is beyond compare.
Begun in 1386, the cathedral required almost six centuries to complete. Final details were installed in 1965. Interestingly, much of the design was executed by French architects and in 1805, Napoleon Bonaparte ordered the completion of the façade so that he could be crowned King of Italy at the illustrious site.
A golden Madonna tops the Duomo at a height of 356 feet.
We begin our tour climbing 90 stairs up to the roof of the cathedral and into the forest of marble pinnacles. The most dazzling of the 135 spires is the Madonna statue. The golden Virgin Mary sits at a height of 356 feet. Interestingly, no building in Milan can be built to exceed the height of the Madonna.
Beyond the abundant statues and spires, the panoramic views from the cathedral’s rooftop are astounding. On a clear day it’s possible to see the Alps. Always on view is Milan’s mix of architectural styles: ultra-contemporary skyscrapers, Belle Époque, Renaissance and Medieval. Somehow it all blends together harmoniously.
From the roof of the Duomo, the ancient spires frame Milan’s ultra-modern skyscrapers.
After touring the rooftop, we descend 256 steps into the cathedral’s interior. (That’s 346 steps total, for anyone keeping track. Not a bad workout!) The Duomo’s five colossal naves, divided by 40 pillars, are another archeological marvel. Fifty-five stained glass windows, dating from the late 1300s line the walls.
The cathedral also houses a massive organ (the second largest in Europe) consisting of 15,800 pipes. The tallest is almost 30 feet; the smallest barely an inch!!
The Duomo’s best-known sculpture is a portrayal of San Bartolomeo (St. Bartholomew) after he was flayed alive. Not for the faint of heart, the piece is notable for its anatomical detail. The tortured Saint’s skin draped over his shoulders like a cloak is as disturbing as it is artistic. I’ll spare you a photo, gentle reader; however, there are plenty on line if you’d like to research.
Milan’s 600-year-old Duomo is the fourth largest church in the world.
At the end of the tour, our guide points out a small red bulb in the dome, marking the spot where a nail, reputedly from the crucifixion of Christ, is held. The nail is retrieved once a year during a festival to celebrate the holy relic.
FASHION CENTS
Milan is home to a number of fashion houses: Prada, Bottega Veneta, Armani and Dolce & Gabbana. And at Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, all the designers are spectacularly on display. Built in 1861, the Galleria is one of the world’s first shopping malls. After visiting the Duomo, Vittorio Emanuele with its immense glass dome and ornate marble floors feels like a cathedral to materialism.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is one of the world’s first shopping malls.
Needless to say, we are tempted by all the glamorous merchandise. Fortunately, our lost luggage was delivered on the previous day. So instead, we opt for a table at Galleria Ristorante Café & Pizza – perfect for enjoying the sumptuous setting and elegant shoppers. Milan has more millionaires than any other city in Italy and I’m sure we spotted a few.
Even better, the galleria pizzas are delicious and surprisingly affordable. The Ortolana, with tomatoes, Mozzarella, hot salami, chorizo and olives is 16 €. Michel finds a great bottle of Sforzato di Valtellina and we’re set. Back to the “Art of Domani.”
MICHEL’S WINE NOTES
Speaking of Michel’s wine acumen, here are a few of his notes for wines we enjoyed in Milan:
Franciacorta – The famous Italian sparkling, is a spumante, not a frizzante which means just fizzy. Franciacorta is made from grapes grown around lake d’Iseo (gravel, sand, limestone soils) and this Champagne rival is produced in the traditional Méthode Champenoise, featuring a secondary fermentation, in the bottle. Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Pinot Nero are the varietals involved.
If I had to compare Franciacorta and Champagne, I would say the first is usually fuller-bodied, with more forward aromatics and fruit flavors. At under $50 retail, it is often an outstanding buy. Try with Milano Salami – a Salami ground even firmer than Genoa.
Sangue de Guida (Judas’ Blood) – Frizzante wine from the region that, in spite of the unappealing name, is supposedly an aphrodisiac!
Valtellina Superiore – This Nebbiolo based wine is grown near Sondrio, in one of the northernmost parts of Italy, close to the Swiss border. Like most Nebbiolos, it starts with a pretty ruby red color and after aging, reaches a more brick-like tint. Compared to the Barolos you find in Piedmont, this variety will be lighter in body and more tannic in style.
Pierro Busso Langhe Chardonnay, from the cellars of Rovello 18.
Oltrepo Pavese – issued from the Barbera grape varietal. This red wine comes from the western part of Lombardy, province of Pavia, South of the Po river. Mid-bodied, it will accompany your Cotoletta (Veal Cutlet) to perfection. Great with Minestrone and goes especially well with Risotto alla Milanese. This dish is over the top and I think the Barbera wine responds well to the challenge.
Nascetta di Novello – a very pleasant varietal with a dry feel. The wine is lean with good acidity. Priced around $40, I find it a good substitute for many unreasonably priced white burgundies.
Other excellent white wines near the Langhe region:
Cortese from Alessandria
Arneis from Roero
CUCINA MILANESE
Because of its wealth and the fact that Milan is an enormous transportation hub, the city has a wonderfully diverse restaurant scene. Traditional Milanese dishes include Ossobuco, Cotoletta, Minestrone and Risotto alla Milanese. Rice is Lombardy’s preference over pasta and the region produces rice not only for Italy, but for much of Europe. Also unique to the area is the use of butter instead of olive oil. Milan’s proximity to the Alps and its contented cows make dairy products easily accessible.
Eataly
If you’ve never experienced Eataly, you’re in for a treat! The original location opened in Torino in 2007 and grew to 41 locations around the world. Here you’ll find an Italian food hall with produce, pasta markets, bakeries, wine shops, Gelaterie and restaurants. Everything about Italian cuisine under one roof.
The Milan location offers a quick course in regional specialties. If you have time, you can even participate in a cooking class. The Eataly restaurant Smeraldo also features live jazz. Be sure to pick up a a few salumi and formaggi for the road.
The “Must-Try” dish – Risotto Milanese and Ossobuco.
Osteria del Treno
A Milan institution — lately even more popular after being featured in Stanley Tucci’s “Searching for Italy” series. Classical dishes are a staple here, so sample the renowned Risotto Milanese and Ossobuco. Start with veal Polpette served with Puttanesca. Prices are quite reasonable, but reserve as early as possible!
Solferino
Established in 1909, Solferino knows a bit about traditional Milanese cuisine. The restaurant’s longevity has also made it incredibly popular. The wine list is extensive, but definitely pricey.
Rovello 18
One of our favorite dining experiences! Not only is the food outstanding but, significantly, Rovello 18 has one of the largest wine cellars in Milan, with over 800 selections. Here, Michel orders a Pierro Busso Langhe Chardonnay to pair with Xistorra (pork sausage) & Fried Polenta and Agnolotti del Plin (small meat Ravioli) with Butter & Sage. Our main course choices are Baked Capon and Grilled Ombrina Fish with Chickpeas and Pumpkin Cream.
Celebrating Michel’s birthday at Giacomo Arengario, with spectacular views of the Duomo.
Giacomo Arengario
Our last evening in Milan is also Michel’s 74th birthday and Giacomo Arengario is the ideal venue for a celebration. Sitting atop the Museo del Novocento, the restaurant has unparalleled views of the Duomo. The dining rooms are elegant with romantic tables.
The traditional menu also includes exceptional seafood choices and seasonal produce. We can’t resist one last serving of Risotto alla Milanese with Ossobuco, along with a Duck Ravioli, Taleggio cheese and Black Truffle. For the second course we choose Fritto Misto di Pesce (Fried Prawns & Calamari) as well as a Beef Fillet with Black Cep Mushrooms. A feast for sure!
The wine menu at Giacomo Arengario is impressive, with numerous top Italian producers but, not surprisingly, we’re in a Champagne mood — a bottle of Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle marks the occasion perfectly.
After dinner, we take a final stroll through the piazza — mostly deserted and quiet as the day ends. The Duomo towers over us, its 135 spires piercing the sky. “What a wonder it is! So grand, so solemn, so vast. And yet so delicate, so airy, so graceful. A very world of solid weight, and yet it seems a delusion of frostwork that might vanish with a breath.” (Mark Twain, 1867, The Innocents Abroad)
