Into “Le Bleu” ~ Along the French Riviera
by Marla Norman & Michel Thibault
Driving from Bordeaux to the southern coast of France, Michel has a sudden inspiration. “Let’s take a detour!”
I’m all in – wherever it might be. One of the many things we promised ourselves after retiring was that we’d take advantage of unplanned travel opportunities. “Where to?” I ask.
“The Camargue,” he says, pulling over and consulting GPS.
To say that Camargue is one of France’s most romantic and mythical regions is tough…because there are so many places vying for that distinction. But this vast marsh, covering some 360-square miles between the two arms of the Rhône River is something remarkable. As western Europe’s largest delta Camargue has been designated as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and a sanctuary for wild birds. A unique species of pink flamingos is one of the most prominent bird types in the Camargue, but herons, coots and ducks are numerous as well.
L’église de Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer, built in the 9th century. Photo courtesy of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer Tourisme.
We decide to head for Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, named for none-other than Mary Magdalene (DaVinci Code any one?) and two other women: Marie Salomé and Marie Jacobé. According to local history, the three left Palestine, fearing persecution, and arrived at this site in the first century. Later, in the 6th century, the archbishop of Arles built a church in their honor. Then, in the 9th century, the church was rebuilt as a fortress to protect villagers from frequent attacks by Saracens and Vikings.
Interestingly, the church and the three Maries are of special significance to many European Gypsies who also celebrate the legend of “Sara la noire” (Black Sara). Sara is supposed to have helped the three Maries to safety and, as a tribute, a statue of her resides in the church. Every May 24th, the city celebrates “Pèlerinage Gitan” – a Gypsy Festival in Sara’s honor attended by over 10,000 Romany people. Non-stop Flamenco music and dancing continue for several days as Gypsies venerate their patron saint.
“Chevaux de Camargue” – famous white horses that are indigenous to the Camargue marshes. Photo by Marla Norman.
No gypsies are in sight as we drive into Saintes-Maries-de-la Mer. We do, however, see dozens and dozens of “Chevaux de Camargue” – the white horses that are indigenous to the area. This ancient breed was first documented by Romans who invaded France around 200 BC. Known for their incredible stamina and agility, these remarkable animals developed large, wide hooves suited to their marshy environment.
Parking along the beach, we get our first glimpse of the Mediterranean. Crystal clear, deep blue water laps at our feet as we walk along the edge of the sea. As we stroll, we converse with locals and ask for lunch recommendations. Brasserie Le Belvédère is an enthusiastic favorite, so we grab a table there.
The special of the day is grilled langoustines and tuna steak tajine. We order both and are amazed at the size of the portions. The tajine is particularly good – exotic and delicious, flavored with traditional seasonings cumin and turmeric.
Michel sizes up the langoustines on the Camargue coast.
And we encounter our first flamingos…on a bottle of the regional Vin de Sable de Camargue. These Rosés, made predominantly from Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan, perfectly complement the fresh seafood. The citrus nose and dash of salinity on the finish are synonymous with the Camargue’s sandy, oceanic terroir.
Savoring the wine and the magnificent seascape, we toast a successful detour!
The view from our room at Le Club de Cavalière in Le Lavandou. Photo by Marla Norman.
ALLONS-Y! ON TO LE LAVANDOU
As a base for our Riviera explorations, we’ve chosen Le Lavandou – a sweet little village of some 8,000 residents perched right on the coast. Named for “Lavanda” Lavender, the town has a very ancient and quite unusual law: “No one is allowed to die in Le Lavandou.” We’re not sure what the consequences are for violating this regulation but, regardless, it has our wholehearted support!
Checking into Hôtel Le Club de Cavalière, we are thrilled with the views. Better yet, we have them all to ourselves. We’ve arrived just before the season begins and there are very few guests. The property is a bit oldish, but impeccably maintained. The staff is attentive and professional. Everything to love.
We order a bottle of Champagne and lounge by the pool, a few feet from the ocean — not a soul in sight. Bliss….
Later that day, we venture into the village. Here things are much, much livelier. A dozen Pétanque courts occupy the center of town and the action is intense. Players line up and eye “le cochonnet” (little wooden ball for non-Pétanque players.) After much strategizing and calculating, they throw the metal “boule” hoping it lands close to “le cochonnet.” At the end of each match, the losing team buys the winners a round of Pastis (licorice-based spirit typical in Provence).
Lively Pétanque matches in the village of Le Lavandou. Photo courtesy of Lavandou Tourist Office.
Cafés line the street as well. All seats face out to the Pétanque courts, obviously. The action goes on until late into the night, but the Apéro Hour, from 5:00-7:00 p.m. is the busiest. We watch the competitions until restaurants open at 7:00 p.m. and then find a table to enjoy the local seafood.
Another day, we visit Bormes-les-Mimosas, a beautifully preserved medieval village, high in the hills, with dramatic views overlooking the sea. Brightly flowered Bougainvillea spills over old stone walls and lines the streets. Here too, it’s quiet. A few other visitors walk the streets. Like us they enjoy the architecture and artisan shops.
Beautifully preserved medieval village of Bormes-les-Mimosas. Photo by Marla Norman.
On the coast of Bormes-les-Mimosas is Château Léoube – producers of one of our favorite Rosés. The 560-hectare organic estate (1,383 acres) is classified in the Côtes de Provence and beautifully situated on the Cap Benât a protected reserve.
After tasting the Léoube wines (More on this estate and other Provençal properties in Michel’s Rosé Review) we have lunch at Café Léoube, with spectacular views of Plage du Pellegrin, one of the most beautiful beaches on the Mediterranean.
Views of Saint-Tropez’s yacht-filled harbor. Photo by Marla Norman.
FINDING OUR WAY IN SAINT-TROPEZ
A scenic forty minute drive from Le Lavandou, we catch up to the crowds in Saint-Tropez – filled with mega-mega yachts, multiple black Mercedes vans with statuesque black-suited drivers and impossibly chic shop$.
The weather is perfect, so we make the climb to the Citadelle, perched at the top of the village. It’s hard to imagine now, but years back Saint-Tropez was a military outpost, bereft of any movie stars.
We had hoped that here at least we might escape the tourists, but the panoramic views are impressive and it’s just as crowded at the top of the village as it is by the port. Peacocks guarding the entrance to the Musée d’Histoire Maritime Tropézienne squawk in dismay, but it doesn’t deter any of the curious visitors.
Le Petit Pointu – Delicious discovery on a back alley of Saint-Tropez. Photo by Marla Norman.
We take to the back alleys in search of a quiet restaurant. Happily, we stumble on Le Petit Pointu. Adorable and unpretentious, this little spot serves up delicious oysters, fish soups, pastas and, best of all, calm.
After a bit of souvenir hunting, we retreat to the car and return to our hotel at Le Lavandou — back where we started on Day 1 – by the pool with cocktails and a sunset. Bleu bliss…
MICHEL’S ROSÉ REVIEW
There are lots of Rosés out there (many with pretty bottles) but quality is all over the map. Since Marla and I are in Provence, where Rosé is king, we’ll share a few thoughts on the matter
First, there are three styles of winemaking for Rosé:
Rosé de Presse – with short skin contact giving out light aromas. A wine for afternoon sipping when beer or soda pop doesn’t work. You will get flowery and slightly tropical notes in this kind of wine. Rolle (also called Vermentino) is a commonly used varietal.
Rosé de Macération – skin contact lasts between 4-12 hours average, so that aromas are more pronounced and the flavor profile is more intense. Rhône-style Rosés, with varietals such as Grenache and Syrah, usually fit in this category.
3) Rosé de Saignée (the word in French means bleed) – is a wine essentially produced from the weight of red grapes crushing each other, followed by an aging period that provides the wine with a wide palette of profiles and a pleasant tannic structure. Those wines are often called gastronomic in the sense that they can match or marry with a “serious” dish.
Of course, there is a time and place for all these Rosés…as long as they are well made.
Love by Château Léoube – a favorite Rosé.
A few of our favorite Rosés:
Love by Château Léoube – vinfied by the esteemed Romain Ott, a Côtes-de-Provence AOP with Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre from the beautiful village of Bormes-les-Mimosas. Warning: Go there by car or electric bike unless you are training for Le Tour de France. The hillside is a tough climb!
Domaine Tempier Bandol – macerated Rosé from half Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault (see a pattern?) A very serious Rosé, almost impossible to find in the U.S.
Clos Sainte Magdeleine – a Cassis treat if you can find it. Imported by wine guru Kermit Lynch, which says it all. Grenache and Cinsault in equal parts with 10 percent or so Mourvèdre. Vines have perfect exposure, plunging into the sea. It’s a wonderful complement to the whole fish they will grill for you in the idyllic village of Cassis.
Chanel-owned winery Domaine de Île de Porquerolles is discretely tucked away in the middle of the island. Photo by Marla Norman.
Domaine de Île de Porquerolles – Take the ferry from Hyères or Le Lavandou to this gorgeous island and sample both white and Rosé (very little red made). Not so easy to find, you think you are on the back road of Fantasy Island, but the reward is there when you arrive. This lighter style Rosé is made from 100 percent Rolle (vermentino).
Domaine de l’Île à Porquerolles is owned by Chanel and vinified by superstar Nicolas Audebert, who produces the amazing Château Rauzan-Ségla in Margaux, the upcoming Château Berliquet in Saint-Émilion, and the 100-points Château Canon that will be vying for First Growth status next time around.)
Now, our top two favorites:
Tavel Rosé – an awesome gastronomic Rosé made mainly from black Grenache with Cinsault, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Mourvèdre and Picpoul as secondary players. Tavel was known to be a most serious Rosé from the Rhône Valley in the past few decades, then fell out of favor to be replaced by the fruitier, lighter Provençal Rosés. It remains a magnificent pleasure, with a deep robe between red and pink. The dense red and black fruit hold their own with grilled meats. Best brands are Château d’Aqueria and Domaine de la Mordorée. A steal for around $20.
Vin de Sable from Camargue, with the region’s famous Flamingos on the label.
Vin de Sable from Camargue – Both Gris and Gris de Gris show off a salmon color, no tannins but roundness, freshness and saltiness. The fruit is muted, letting the food express itself while taking a perfect back seat. Elegant in the mouth, this wine seems to be the perfect all-around Rosé. The last one I tried in Saintes-Maries-de-la Mer was sensational with tuna steak!
Marketing campaigns lately have been playing with the line “la vie en Rosé. I’m sold on it!
For more TCO travel along the French Riviera click here.
