Garcin-Lévêque Vineyards: Poetry & Wine
A conversation with Hélène Garcin and Patrice Lévêque
by Marla Norman & Michel Thibault
To overstate the prestige and cachet of Bordeaux is impossible. The region has been dedicated to wine growing for centuries, even before the Romans conquered the area and named it Burdigala. And Bordeaux’s legendary reputation for quality and longevity fetch top price.
So, to be a superstar among such a celebrated and influential group is something rare. That Hélène Garcin and Patrice Lévêque own three ultra-premium estates in Bordeaux is nothing short of remarkable. Moreover, the Garcin family, Vignobles Garcin, owns three additional and highly-regarded estates in the Pessac Leognan appellation of Bordeaux: Château Haut-Bergey and Château Branon. Interestingly, Sylviane Garcin’s brother is Daniel Cathiard, owner of Château Smith Haut Lafitte in Martillac.
A quick look at the three Garcin-Lévêque estates:
Château Clos L’Église dates back to the 18th Century and is located in the Pomerol region of Bordeaux. Situated between Châteaux Clinet and L’Église-Clinet, the property benefits from the very best terroir on the Pomerol upper plateau. Nearby is powerhouse Pétrus.
Superstar wine couple, Hélène Garcin and Patrice Lévêque, own three ultra-premium estates in Bordeaux. Photo by Marla Norman.
Château Barde-Haut is where Hélène and Patrice make their home. The property location is superb, next to Troplong Mondot and La Mondotte. Here, Patrice produces a wine that is both rich in fruit and stylistically elegant. And the property has a state-of-the-art “green” winery – built entirely from oxidized steel – a dramatic departure from traditional Bordeaux styles.
Château Poesia is the newest acquisition within the Garcin-Lévêque holdings. In 2014, the couple purchased Château Haut Villet, a neglected estate, and renamed it Château Poesia. The property consists of 13.2 hectares (32.6 acres) and is situated on a limestone plateau in the Saint-Émilion Appellation. To date, the estate has been completely replanted with 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. “We are really in love with this property,” enthuses Patrice. “We think Poesia will produce our first 100-point wine.”
Bodegas Poesia, located in Mendoza, Argentina within the located within the prestigious Luján de Cuyo Appellation. Photo courtesy of Bodegas Poesia.
Hélène and Patrice own yet another vineyard in Argentina’s spectacular Mendoza, located within the Luján de Cuyo Appellation – prized for it’s sandy, stony soil. Their Bodega Poesia was originally established in 1935, planted with Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Since the Garcin-Lévêque acquisition, the wines have received ratings of 94 PT and better from Robert Parker.
We catch up to Hélène and Patrice at their home in Barde-Haut, overlooking acres and acres of lush vineyards. “First question: How do you manage the viticulture and international sales for three Bordeaux vineyards and a fourth in Argentina?”
“We have a LOT of help,” laughs Hélène. “We have a great team of people in both Bordeaux and Mendoza to assist with every phase of the operation. And we really do function as a team. Everyone is important. Also the fact that the seasons are reversed in Argentina from Europe is a huge help. We had looked at property in California at one point, but decided that since harvests are at the same time as Bordeaux, there was no way we could manage a U.S. property. Argentina works perfectly. And really, our schedules are pretty manageable. The fall is the only time that’s difficult. Harvest is beyond insane!”
Hélène Garcin and Patrice Lévêque at their Château Barde-Haut vineyards. Photo by Marla Norman.
But we wonder: “With the three estates in Bordeaux – arguably one of the most coveted wine-growing regions in the world – why did you decide to expand in Argentina?”
“Because Patrice and I wanted something of our own,” Hélène explains. We own Château Poesia entirely, but we share the other Bordeaux properties with my family, which is great, but we wanted to build something that was exclusively ours. Plus, I felt an immediate connection with Mendoza. It reminded me of my childhood home in the French Alps. It was a kind of Garden of Eden. That’s why I named it Poetry or “Poesia.”
“We also thought there was a real opportunity in Argentina to develop Bordeaux-style wines that can compete with any of the high-end wines going for thousands of dollars. The terroir is excellent and we cellar our Poesia wines, just as we do our French wines. They have great complexity and elegant flavor. They’ll be wonderful 35 years from now.”
New vat room at Château Poesia, the most recent acquisition within the Garcin-Lévêque holdings. Photo courtesy of Château Poesia
On a tour of the vineyards, our first stop is Poesia. The views from high above Saint-Émilion are especially spectacular. Here too, the winery and cellars have been completely rebuilt and there’s even a pool. “We come up here and relax on weekends,” says Hélène, pointing out a barbecue grill. “We have great cookouts!
Patrice pops open a bottle of Poesia 2013. Although 2013 is considered an off-vintage, this wine offers a beautiful nose and bold, rich structure.
In Pomerol, at Château Clos L’Église an experiment is under way – one of the batches of juice consists of grapes harvested early and blended with a second batch of late-harvest grapes.This blend has an incredible depth of flavor. Truly impressive for month-old juice.
Hélène and Patrice are particularly fond of their Clos L’Église property. “This terroir has an equilibrium that doesn’t exist anywhere else,” says Patrice. “It provides an elegance to the wines that’s unique to this area.”
State-of-the-art “green” winery – built entirely from oxidized steel at Château Barde-Haut. Photo courtesy of Vignobles Garcin.
We return to Château Barde-Haut and admire the “green” facility at Barde-Haut, which has recently won several awards for architectural design. “Are you moving into biodynamic cultivation for all your wineries?”
“We don’t use chemicals in any of our vineyards,” says Patrice. “But I wouldn’t say we’re biodynamic exactly. We till mechanically, although the grapes are picked and sorted by hand. In Argentina we were certified as an “organic” vineyard at one point. But eventually the certification seemed to be more of a government tax than an actual evaluation, so we didn’t reapply for it.”
Later over dinner, our conversation turns to the business of winemaking and the huge amounts of money required to invest in wines – especially Bordeaux.
“Honestly, that part of the business makes me a little sad.” Hélène responds. “I don’t think of wine only as a means of making money. And I always say don’t save the wine for some special occasion that may never happen. Wine is for sharing with family and friends as part of a good meal. Drink the wine and enjoy it!”
Who could argue with such practical and poetic advice….
Marla & Michel tasting with Hélène Garcin & Patrice Lévêque.
